Oh, to be a child again...
Catholic philosopher, Dr. Peter Kreeft, wrote a book about his passion for surfing called, I Surf, Therefore I Am— the first book about surfing ever written by a philosopher. Kreeft, in his 70s, is a "surfanatic," and in the book gives ten compelling reasons why everyone should surf, from the great philosophers: Moses, Buddha, Confucius, Lao Tzu, Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Jesus, Machiavelli, Freud, and George Morey.
Kreeft claims that surfing can make you "good, mystical, peaceful, wise, heavenly, happy, sexy, and even rich."
Many surfers would agree—surfers such as Cory Lopez, who in this video takes his daughter Alana on a fun surfing lesson. With the trust a child puts in a loving father, Alana hops right up on her dad’s back and enjoys the ride.
Cory Lopez, who goes by the nickname, "Lopey" in the surfing world has been top-ranked contender on the ASP World Surfing circuit (ASP World Tour) for many years and is considered to be one of the best "Free Surfers" on the planet. He grew up surfing the Gulf Coast of Florida with his older brother Shea and surfing father, Pete.
“We learned how to surf before we can even remember. We were two-years-old and standing on boards". As the boys matured, there was more than "one occasion" when their dad would get them out of school to surf a "hurricane swell." The Lopez brothers began competing when they were young and have won many surfing championships.
This video may not make you want to take up surfing, but it just might make you wish you were child again.