Nestled among the vineyards of a hilly valley south of Rome in the Castelli Romani region of Italy is the small city of Velletri. With a population of about 50,000, it has fully embraced the colors of Mary every May for decades. During the first weekend of May, its historic center exudes a distinct, unmistakable atmosphere. It isn't just the arrival of spring that fills the townspeople with joy, but the feast of their patroness, Our Lady of Graces.
The scents of camellias, hydrangeas, and star jasmine mingle in a uniquely Marian fragrance. Balconies display blue banners and drapes proclaiming “VV Maria” (Long live Mary!). The cobblestone streets are covered with sky-blue cardboard, every shop window features a small altar dedicated to the Madonna, and thousands of people flock to the long evening procession holding three-foot candles.
A 400-year-old tradition
This tradition of paying homage to Our Lady of Graces dates back more than 400 years. According to municipal archives, the earliest records of this celebration date back to May 1613. While the procession was much shorter then, it has steadily grown over the years. This expansion is a testament to the townspeople's deepening affection for their beloved Virgin, depicted in an ancient icon believed to date back to the 8th century.
Today, this precious painting is housed in the Cathedral of St. Clement. For centuries, locals have shown her boundless devotion, which has also been intertwined with local folklore. For instance, peasant farmers would kneel at her feet to beg for her intercession for the success of their harvests. According to local records, once they left the cathedral, they would head either toward the sea or toward the mountains depending on whether they wanted fair weather or rain.
While this rural custom has fallen by the wayside, the deep affection for this particularly beloved icon hasn't wavered. For her annual outing in May, the painting is mounted in a frame studded with rivers of precious stones. Devotees dressed in the traditional garb of ancient brotherhoods take turns carrying the heavy frame for several miles. In the dead of night, the singing procession winds through the narrow streets, passing in front of every church in the historic center.
A city of Mary
This candlelit march is a true phenomenon. Shopkeepers leave their doors open until the Madonna passes by, even if it’s midnight. Thousands of people gather in the streets. As the painting goes by, the most enthusiastic devotees shout out, “Viva Maria!” and the crowd joins in the chorus.
Surrounded by these ovations and welcomed like a star, the Virgin journeys up and down the steep slopes of the city. Alongside her, the faithful walk over large sheets of cardboard rolled out along the route. While these conveniently catch the hot wax dripping from the candles, they also highlight the community spirit of the festival. The children of Velletri spend the entire morning decorating the cardboard, sitting in the streets and chatting away among colorful crayons.
Because of this devotion, Velletri was, in a sense, rewarded by the Vatican: last summer, the city received the official title of Civitas Mariae (City of Mary), joining the list of Italian towns uniquely devoted to the “protective and maternal mantle” of the Mother of Jesus. It's a list that could easily include countless villages, reflecting the innumerable Marian images that populate the region.
