Where popes go on holiday, to find silence and hear God

As July settles in, Rome’s temperature rises and the city gradually empties of its natives, the exodus reaches a peak in August, as many escape the heat by traveling to seaside or mountain destinations to relax. (Keep in mind that air conditioning isn't as widespread in Europe as in the USA.)

Although Pope Francis prefers to spend his summer break within the Vatican walls, in the past other pontiffs have been part of this group of residents leaving the heat and humidity of the city during the summer months. 

The main destination for centuries was the papal summer residence at Castel Gandolfo, around an hour away from Rome. But John Paul II and Benedict XVI at times ventured farther away, up into the Italian mountains.

Aleteia goes through the popes’ favorite destinations. 

The Papal Palace of Castel Gandolfo was the primary summer destination for Popes from the 17th century until Pope Benedict XVI’s pontificate. The building started being constructed in 1623 under Pope Urban VIII (1568-1644) and was thereafter used by many of his successors, as it was conveniently located in the countryside around 30 kilometers (a little under 10 miles) from the Vatican. With its view of the Albano lake, lush gardens and large apartments, all spread across 55 hectares, it was the perfect place for popes to rest privately and recharge their batteries. 

Popes Pius XII (1876-1958) and Paul VI (1897-1978) both spent their last days there and Benedict XVI (1927 - 2022) chose to stay in the residence while the cardinal electors chose his successor, after he made the historic decision to resign in 2013. John Paul II jokingly called the residence “Vatican II," due to how much time the pontiffs spent there in the summer.

Since his election Pope Francis has preferred to spend his break, usually in the month of July when his general and private audiences are suspended, within the Vatican walls. In fact in 2014, only a year after he was elected, he opened up the gardens of the papal palace to visitors and tourists and then followed in 2016 with the private rooms of the apartments. 

Take a look into the papal residence here:

In 1987, John Paul II broke with the tradition of spending the summer break exclusively in Castel Gandolfo by deciding to take a trip to northeastern Italy, to the Dolomite Alps. This mountain range close to Italy’s border with Austria is known for its scenic hiking routes and extensive ski slopes, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

On July 8, 1987, he travelled to the small town of Lorenzago di Cadore, counting less than 1,000 inhabitants, and stayed around one week there before returning to Rome and spending the remainder of his summer break at Castel Gandolfo.

There are several different stories about who exactly first invited John Paul II to this mountainous town, whether it was a group of young people or the local bishop. Nonetheless, the Polish Pope visited the area a total of six times during his pontificate: in 1987, 1988, 1992, 1993, 1996 and 1998. 

Benedict XVI then followed in his predecessors’ footsteps, visiting this same town in 2007. In fact, Lorenzago di Cadore even has a small museum dedicated to the popes’ visits with memorabilia, photos, and more.

The museum website also details the “John Paul II hiking trail,” honoring the route he used to take, and highlights that pilgrims can venerate a relic -- a lock of hair -- of the Polish pontiff in the local parish. 

Another one of John Paul II’s favored vacation destinations was Les Combes in the Aosta Valley region, near the Western Alps that delineate the Italian border with France. Les Combes is a small village that is part of a town that also numbers less than 1,000 inhabitants. He visited this area 10 times during his pontificate: in 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2004.

Under the gaze of the Mont Blanc, the second-highest mountain in Europe, the Polish Pope liked to take this vacation time to rest, hike in the mountains, pray, and study. Les Combes also has a small museum dedicated to the Pope’s visit with objects and many photos showing how he spent his time there. In 2004 the municipality even decided to name the plain where he would recite the Angelus after him. 

Benedict XVI again followed John Paul II’s example and spent his holidays in Les Combes three times: in 2005, 2006 and 2009.

In 2008, from July 28 to August 11, Benedict XVI spent his summer vacation in the major seminary of Bressanone, a mountain city where they also speak German, in the Trentino Alto-Adige region in northeastern Italy. Numbering around 20,000 people, this city was very beloved to the German Pope as his grandmother was from a nearby village and he had spent several summers there before becoming pontiff.

During his time there in 2008 he met the local clergy, seminarians, and parish community, he visited the birthplace of a local saint that was a missionary in China, St. Joseph Freinademetz, recited the Angelus twice, received an honorary citizenship, and also was able to take some time to rest.