This story takes place in Normandy, France, on the banks of the River Orne. The Benedictine Abbey of Almenêches , transferred to Argentan in the 18th century, is one of the oldest women's abbeys in France. Today, 31 nuns live at the Notre-Dame d'Argentan abbey following the rule of Saint Benedict. They lead a contemplative life, while cultivating their vegetable garden and taking care of household chores.
However, five of these cloistered nuns have an unusual calling. They are veritable masters of an art for which their predecessors were awarded the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (“Best Craftsman of France”) in the 1950s. Today, they are the sole holders of the secret of Argentan stitch lace.
French lace was born in Argentan
Lace originated in Venice during the Renaissance. This needlework technique differs from embroidery in that it does not require a fabric backing. The motifs are linked by strings of utilitarian thread. The idea appealed to the wealthy, so it crossed the Alps and the fashion soon invaded the alcoves and sacristies of the kingdom of France.
Under King Louis XIV, Jean-Baptiste Colbert—who was responsible for many royal factories, such as Sèvres (porcelain) and Les Gobelins (tapestries)—also created lace factories where this new Italian know-how could be mastered.
To prevent money leaving the country, lace imports were banned, and French lace — “point de France” — was invented in Argentan. Point de France motifs are linked by regular, scalloped hexagonal stitches.
In the 18th century, clothes, liturgical ornaments, and furniture were adorned with Argentan lace, renowned for its finesse. Argentan's lace factories employed around a thousand workers. However, the French Revolution put an end to this golden age.
Benedictine nuns take up the thread
The know-how of Argentan stitch was almost lost. It took the tenacity of a mayor and a sub-prefect to revive lacemaking, thanks to the last lacemakers and the Benedictine nuns who founded an orphanage. A lace-making school run by the Benedictine nuns opened in 1874 on the premises of their orphanage, 150 years ago this year. The school won medals at the World Fairs.
World War II bombing destroyed the school. From 1958 onwards, the Benedictine nuns alone continued the tradition of Argentan lacemaking. Some of their finest creations are preserved in museums at the Vatican and in Washington DC. The abbey has preserved a few prestigious pieces, including an oval called “Le Marquis,” made around 1930. The work required 730 hours of labor!
Very monastic work
“We don't take orders, and sales are made on the spot,” says Sr. Colette. “Customers choose from the pieces presented to them. Given the work involved, the first prices are around 350 euros [about $380], for a piece measuring 5 cm by 3 cm [2 by 1.2 inches]. It's needlework, done with very fine linen thread (much finer than that used to make sheets or curtains) and very fine needles. Linen thread is currently hard to find and we're grateful to anyone who can help us source some.”
The Benedictine nuns don't just make religious motifs; they create their own flower and ribbon designs. “As prices are very high, we don't sell much, and we'd sell even less if we only made religious motifs!”
“We can't work for more than two hours at a time. The work is too tiring for the eyes. It's a very 'monastic' job, which allows us to pray at the same time.” Argentan lace is above all a work of patience and silence. “Ora et labora, pray and work,” is the Benedictine motto.
